Speaking Twi to Market Queens

Friday night was an interesting ordeal, though, one I can't say I'm eager to repeat. It's been tough being a TA for an abroad program for various reasons, but mostly, it can be lonely. I spend most of my time with the students, but none of them are in my peer group. I have been meeting plenty of artists, activists, and media, but they have all been men. I have really been yearning for the companionship of women.

Anyways, Friday night, I had heard about an event in Jamestown, a neighborhood in Accra, but a slum by anyones standards. The community is known for speaking Ga, fishing and birthing incredible boxers. The company, YoYo Tinz, "aims to promote, document and archive the Ghanaian hip hop culture." And having met the two men behind the brand, they invited me to their website launch party.

It was an evening of hip-hop. Graffiti and artwork lined the walls, beatboxers and rappers performed, breakdancers freestyled, and a resident DJ supplied the music for the evening. I initially invited one student along, who has already been to Jamestown, but almost the entire class ended up coming. Unfortunately, because of NYU's mandatory dinners, we missed most of the performances. But the Jamestown in itself was raw and fantastic, and the gallery was buzzing with energy and creativity. It was a do-your-own-thing event. Some people were drinking, others inspected the local artwork, Nana Osei and Selorm (the founders) were being interviewed by a British camera crew.

Following that event, we headed to Republic, upon a student's request. I had been there one time before, and the crowd was overwhelmingly white, with a mix of tourists and expats. Friday was more diverse, but the pricey drink list simply attracted tourists, and only Ghanaians of a certain economic class. As house music played and the tables became crowded, the environment felt bourgeois (bougie) and foreign. The students also got progressively more wasted, and honestly, I've never felt my age more.

Saturday, we all attended a charity football (soccer) match at the sports stadium in Accra. I'm by no
means a big sports fan, but the excitement and site of it all was enjoyable. Sunday, I attended a huge gallery featuring African artists called Artists Alliance. Located in Labadi Beach, a poor neighborhood in Accra, the pink building holds paintings, jewelry, sculptures, masks, clothes and furniture for display and for sale. Each corner of the three-floor gallery offered something new.

Today we began our journey to the North. First stop = Kumasi.

Kumasi is home to the largest market in West Africa, as well as the region of the Asante (Ashanti) people. One of the Ghanaian NYU staff members has been teaching me Twi, the language that would have been the national language of Ghana, had colonization not happened, yet is generally, widely spoken.

The market was packed, and confusing, and hot, and intense, but I spoke to so many people! "Good afternoon" was met with response, but being able to ask in Twi: how they are, respond myself, ask their name, explain my Ghana name and where I'm from, was so appreciated and gave me so much pleasure. My dad always taught me that it's crucial to put in the effort to engage with someone in their language while traveling, and I've truly carried that with me.

Halfway through the market tour, the students were having me translate for them and one student even asked me if I could teach them some phrases. But I was absolutely blown away by the kindness of the people I encountered in the Kumasi market. I'm not sure how often visitors and tourists, especially with white skin, care at all about learning Twi. English is technically the "official" language in Ghana. But I haven't been in the presence of any two Ghanaians who speak purely English to each other.

I received so many smiles and laughs and warm conversations today. I just feel so full and encouraged to learn more.