I feel like I've been neglecting Views from Accra this week, but it's mostly because I've been working. On Tuesday we visited another media outlet, Joy, which has extremely popular radio and TV stations. I got to meet one of the most famous DJs in Africa, DJ Black, who really shepherded in the hip-hop scene here in Ghana. He curates mixtapes, has an app, and of course, has a daily radio show.
I've conducted three really interesting interviews this week and I feel so much more clear on what my thesis will be. I met with one of the first and most prominent spoken word artists in Ghana, Mutombo Da Poet, who releases his work through music videos and certainly considers himself under the hip-hop umbrella. I interviewed Panji, who is an OG in this scene by anyone's standards. He's a producer, A&R of sorts, and a general music historian. He has been apart of the hip-hop scene here since the beginning, and he was really able to synthesize what makes Ghanaian hip-hop so unique. Lastly, I spoke to Worlasi, who is an up and coming musician and visual artist, with just one mixtape under his belt, but blowing up fast. He makes music for "his people," as he likes to say and isn't at all concerned about the Western world. "What if we never even knew the Western world existed?" he asks. Worlasi also boldly addresses the stigma of blackness within his music. Whether it's certain sayings that use blackness as a marker of inferiority, or a superior way of treating white foreigners, he's trying to shatter prejudice and deprogram racial hierarchies that still exist from colonization.
But this week hasn't just been work. I went salsa dancing Wednesday night, and man, Ghanaians can dance! I studied salsa in Cuba and so I never feel worried that I won't be able to keep up, but these people were incredible. Last night, I also went out, to a great local bar called Purple Pub. Just after 12:30, the music switched from shitty American music to amazing Ghanaian dancehall. Everyone was belting the words, having dance offs and consuming the mystery blue drinks that were their specialty. I had so much fun. Before I knew it, it was 3am and I had been dancing for hours.
I'm going a bit out of order, but I also went to some markets this week. The Arts Center is a small scale open market, with individual vendors selling clothes, crafts, etc. There, I learned some basic West African drumming. But the highlight was Markola market, Accra's central market. I could spend all day there and never see the same thing, it's massive and populated.
I was standing on the main road trying my Twi with a woman selling onions, when I felt a hand pressed to my leg. I turned and it was a sweet baby boy in complete shock at my presence (and skin.) He didn't want to smile or wave like most kids I run into, he was touching me to see if I was real, his eyes bulging with confusion. That stayed with me.
I think those were the highlights from this week. It's hard to believe this upcoming week is the last one for the students and this program. I'm really looking forward to staying on longer and just having total freedom.
Sunday, June 26, 2016
Tuesday, June 21, 2016
Business Women: Shea Butter and Basket Weaving
I can't believe I forgot to mention meeting a woman's group who cultivate shea butter!
The following day, we traveled all the way up to the villages which border Burkina Faso. The first place was Paga and the Pikoro Slave Camp. This camp was also utilized in the Trans Atlantic Slave Trade. People were captured in the north and forced to travel in chains and by foot to the southern coasts where the slave ships ported. Capturers would travel on horse and this journey could take 2-3 months.
Then, we stopped at Catholic Basilica, a church built completely from mud.
The final stop had the greatest impact: the Single Mothers group in Bolgatanga. There are other single mothers groups in the north, mostly comprised of widows, but this group was incredibly unique. We walked into women brushing off benches for us to sit, as other women sat on the floor, their fingers moving a mile a minute, weaving baskets in various colors and patterns. A group of children kept growing of young boys and girls, who stared at us.
An older woman, who's torso was bent at a total 90 degree angle, was escorted in to a seat in the center. After maybe 10 or even 15 minutes of reticence on the women's part, they began to rise and gather. Then they started to sing and clap, and then they danced. One by one, a woman would enter the semi-circle and let the rhythms and energetic movement take over. Knees hit their chests and their hands met the ground, as their feet created poly-rhythms that contrasted the clapping of the group. Then they grabbed us, one by one, until we all were dancing and stomping together, pitifully keeping up with their full-bodied movement.
After we danced, and sat back to our seats, our chests heaving, sweat droplets dripping down our foreheads and big smiles taking over faces, the environment was now set to converse.
Cecilia, the spokeswoman for the group, explained the culture. In Bolgatanga, the land, home and name is carried on by boys. If a father only births girls, the youngest daughter is forced to stay behind and take care of the home and parents. They are not permitted to marry, but they will have children with men who may be married or who understand that they will have no involvement or rights to the children. If a son is born, he is the property of the father and will carry on the family's legacy. These are single mothers.
But these women have gathered for support and have formed a sisterhood of sorts, all the youngest of a family of girls. They are not victims, they are empowered. They basket weave together and sell their baskets in the market to support themselves and their families. Their children play together and weave, as well. These single mothers are sisters.
We learned to "weave." I put that in quotes because all I really did was slow my partner down and force her to correct my mistakes. But it was a powerful experience, nonetheless, and their products are stunning.
That evening, I had my first guinea fowl, a bird similar to a chicken, but more tender and smothered with hot pepper sauce. Ghana's club beer was the perfect pairing.
The next day we departed Tamale, before the sun came up and drove all day to get back to Accra. We did stop early on at Kintampo Falls, where there are three levels of waterfalls.
For the first time and after getting back, Accra felt like home. I was eager to sleep in my bed, looking forward to getting back to some of the restaurants I love and meet with friends I've made. It felt good.
The following day, we traveled all the way up to the villages which border Burkina Faso. The first place was Paga and the Pikoro Slave Camp. This camp was also utilized in the Trans Atlantic Slave Trade. People were captured in the north and forced to travel in chains and by foot to the southern coasts where the slave ships ported. Capturers would travel on horse and this journey could take 2-3 months.
Then, we stopped at Catholic Basilica, a church built completely from mud.
The final stop had the greatest impact: the Single Mothers group in Bolgatanga. There are other single mothers groups in the north, mostly comprised of widows, but this group was incredibly unique. We walked into women brushing off benches for us to sit, as other women sat on the floor, their fingers moving a mile a minute, weaving baskets in various colors and patterns. A group of children kept growing of young boys and girls, who stared at us.
An older woman, who's torso was bent at a total 90 degree angle, was escorted in to a seat in the center. After maybe 10 or even 15 minutes of reticence on the women's part, they began to rise and gather. Then they started to sing and clap, and then they danced. One by one, a woman would enter the semi-circle and let the rhythms and energetic movement take over. Knees hit their chests and their hands met the ground, as their feet created poly-rhythms that contrasted the clapping of the group. Then they grabbed us, one by one, until we all were dancing and stomping together, pitifully keeping up with their full-bodied movement.
After we danced, and sat back to our seats, our chests heaving, sweat droplets dripping down our foreheads and big smiles taking over faces, the environment was now set to converse.
Cecilia, the spokeswoman for the group, explained the culture. In Bolgatanga, the land, home and name is carried on by boys. If a father only births girls, the youngest daughter is forced to stay behind and take care of the home and parents. They are not permitted to marry, but they will have children with men who may be married or who understand that they will have no involvement or rights to the children. If a son is born, he is the property of the father and will carry on the family's legacy. These are single mothers.
But these women have gathered for support and have formed a sisterhood of sorts, all the youngest of a family of girls. They are not victims, they are empowered. They basket weave together and sell their baskets in the market to support themselves and their families. Their children play together and weave, as well. These single mothers are sisters.
We learned to "weave." I put that in quotes because all I really did was slow my partner down and force her to correct my mistakes. But it was a powerful experience, nonetheless, and their products are stunning.
That evening, I had my first guinea fowl, a bird similar to a chicken, but more tender and smothered with hot pepper sauce. Ghana's club beer was the perfect pairing.
The next day we departed Tamale, before the sun came up and drove all day to get back to Accra. We did stop early on at Kintampo Falls, where there are three levels of waterfalls.
For the first time and after getting back, Accra felt like home. I was eager to sleep in my bed, looking forward to getting back to some of the restaurants I love and meet with friends I've made. It felt good.
Monday, June 20, 2016
Exploring Tamale
I just got back to Accra, late last night and had to spend several hours sifting through 45 unread emails and messages, after 3 days of absence from the digital world. But I'm officially caught up. I've contacted my parents to let them know I'm alive, (neither of them were worried.) More so my friends sent me some frantic text messages after seeing the coverage of the ongoing flooding in Accra. I wasn't in Accra and reassured them of my safety, but there were people who were not okay, communities that were not okay.
I follow many Ghanaian people on Twitter at this point, rappers, and poets, visuals artists and media. "You gotta learn to swim before moving to Accra." "Accra is the new Venice." These tweets showed up on my timeline as Accra underwent another round of flooding, almost a year to the day of the disastrous floods that submerged neighborhoods in Accra last year and killed over 150 people.
People are frustrated. People are dying.
I'll get more into this later, as I'm thinking of adjusting my thesis. It just feels so dire, so urgent. And, like the government is abandoning its people.
But, I want to tell you about Tamale. We drove there Thursday, early in the morning and about an 8-hour drive from Kumasi and the Ashanti region. As we crossed over into Ghana's Northern region, cars thinned and motorcycles driven by women in hijabs filled the unpaved and pot-hole ridden streets. The clothing got longer and more conservative, though the fabrics remained just as vibrant. The pace was slower, houses and villages were separated by miles of trees and unoccupied land. Cows, goats, and chickens ran in flocks and in solo ventures.
Our first stop was the Tamale market. It was a fraction of the size of Kumasi's, but still just as easy to get lost in as a novice. We then went to visit Dr. Edward Salifu and Kassim Abdallah who spoke of rural media and the role of media in Northern Ghana, the language barriers and the high percentage of illiteracy, and the need for specific and different news than Accra circulates daily.
Friday was a full day of immersion into Tamale. We visited a beautiful mosque, early, before midday prayer commenced. Then, the same guide discussed Islam with us, and unfortunately, he felt the need to go into detail on the disconnect between terrorism and Islam. He felt the need to explain, in a country that has been colonized repeatedly, and its people enslaved and murdered in the name of Christianity, that the actions of a select group doesn't reflect an entire religion. *Sigh* He was eloquent, and thoughtful, but it just bothered me that the conversation needed to exist.
We took a quick visit to Radio Savannah, as well, to meet some journalists and hear how the upcoming election is covered in the north.
The absolute highlight of the day was taking a tour of Dr. Abdulai's Shekhinah clinic, which just celebrated its 25th anniversary. Dr. Abdulai's background is devastating. He was one of eleven, and all his siblings died from poverty-related illnesses. His father also passed away and it was just him and his mother for a long time. Until she too passed away, in his arms.
Dr. Abdulai became a doctor, as medical complications plagued his family. But his life's work became solidified in 1989, when he performed an emergency surgery under a mango tree, which began his clinic. The clinic is home to many, many mentally challenged people who's families don't know what to do, or have been on the street. People are free to come and go as they please. Some people have lived there for decades.
But Dr. Abdulai isn't trying to "cure" them, he isn't injecting their bodies with drugs. He feeds them, provides a roof over their heads and offers them love.
He also has a ward for HIV patients, he performs surgeries twice a week and consults walk-in patients 3-times a week. All of his services are free and every employee is a volunteer.
It was certainly a profound experience. The clinic and living conditions and medical rooms were bare and basic. But it was home for a woman who sat topless in the sun, for a blind woman who's other family members passed away, for a mother and son, who were HIV positive, for a young man, who's family had dropped him off, for a woman, and for who had been living at the clinic for 26 years, but no one knew exactly what country she was from. The clinic is for everyone.
I follow many Ghanaian people on Twitter at this point, rappers, and poets, visuals artists and media. "You gotta learn to swim before moving to Accra." "Accra is the new Venice." These tweets showed up on my timeline as Accra underwent another round of flooding, almost a year to the day of the disastrous floods that submerged neighborhoods in Accra last year and killed over 150 people.
People are frustrated. People are dying.
I'll get more into this later, as I'm thinking of adjusting my thesis. It just feels so dire, so urgent. And, like the government is abandoning its people.
But, I want to tell you about Tamale. We drove there Thursday, early in the morning and about an 8-hour drive from Kumasi and the Ashanti region. As we crossed over into Ghana's Northern region, cars thinned and motorcycles driven by women in hijabs filled the unpaved and pot-hole ridden streets. The clothing got longer and more conservative, though the fabrics remained just as vibrant. The pace was slower, houses and villages were separated by miles of trees and unoccupied land. Cows, goats, and chickens ran in flocks and in solo ventures.
Our first stop was the Tamale market. It was a fraction of the size of Kumasi's, but still just as easy to get lost in as a novice. We then went to visit Dr. Edward Salifu and Kassim Abdallah who spoke of rural media and the role of media in Northern Ghana, the language barriers and the high percentage of illiteracy, and the need for specific and different news than Accra circulates daily.
Friday was a full day of immersion into Tamale. We visited a beautiful mosque, early, before midday prayer commenced. Then, the same guide discussed Islam with us, and unfortunately, he felt the need to go into detail on the disconnect between terrorism and Islam. He felt the need to explain, in a country that has been colonized repeatedly, and its people enslaved and murdered in the name of Christianity, that the actions of a select group doesn't reflect an entire religion. *Sigh* He was eloquent, and thoughtful, but it just bothered me that the conversation needed to exist.
We took a quick visit to Radio Savannah, as well, to meet some journalists and hear how the upcoming election is covered in the north.
The absolute highlight of the day was taking a tour of Dr. Abdulai's Shekhinah clinic, which just celebrated its 25th anniversary. Dr. Abdulai's background is devastating. He was one of eleven, and all his siblings died from poverty-related illnesses. His father also passed away and it was just him and his mother for a long time. Until she too passed away, in his arms.
Dr. Abdulai became a doctor, as medical complications plagued his family. But his life's work became solidified in 1989, when he performed an emergency surgery under a mango tree, which began his clinic. The clinic is home to many, many mentally challenged people who's families don't know what to do, or have been on the street. People are free to come and go as they please. Some people have lived there for decades.
But Dr. Abdulai isn't trying to "cure" them, he isn't injecting their bodies with drugs. He feeds them, provides a roof over their heads and offers them love.
He also has a ward for HIV patients, he performs surgeries twice a week and consults walk-in patients 3-times a week. All of his services are free and every employee is a volunteer.
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| A volunteer shows us their new garden, where they are beginning to grow yams to save money on food. |
Wednesday, June 15, 2016
I've found my soul in Kumasi
There's something that really resonates with me about being in Kumasi. The history of the Asante people is filled with unity and resilience. After centuries, the Asante culture is still so rich and valued. And the people... I swear, I have never met such kind, warm people in my whole life. I feel at home here. There's a true sense of community.
Last night, at the hotel, I ended up talking to Emmanuel, the bartender, for hours. He's from Bolga, which is way up at the top of Ghana, bordering Burkina Faso. He has two daughters and moved to Kumasi for work purposes, though he visits his family regularly. But we got deep. I laid out America's deep-rooted race problems. We discussed Ghanaian politics (which I'm starting to get pretty well-versed in.) We both agreed that the two-party system is outdated and non-functional in Ghana and the US, and that governance doesn't ever really reach the masses. We talked about poverty. He was so surprised about the economic realities in the US for so many people, and that we too, have homeless people, and that our government doesn't care about poor people. Our conversation was pretty dim, but enlightening, and it felt like we were old friends.
Today, we explored Kumasi. It was magnificent.
We first visited Okomfo Anokye hospital, where the famous Asante sword remains in the ground. This is a sacred place for the Asante people. Okomfo Anokye, a leader of the Asante people, placed the sword in the ground to signify unity. He stated that if the sword is ever removed, that will be the end of the Asante people. Until 1995, people have tried to pull the sword from the ground, including Muhammed Ali (to no avail, of course).
We also toured Manhyia Palace, the original palace of the Asantahene (King of Asantes.) The Asante are the oldest tribe in Ghana, and proved serious competitors to the European colonizers. Although, had colonization and the slave trade not commenced, it is believed that Ghana would be Asante region and Twi the official language.
My favorite stop was the Center for National Culture, where Kumasi's finest art was displayed. There were artists selling paintings, sculptures, pottery, jewelry and clothes. The Adinkra symbols are prevalent in jewelry and accessories. They are symbols created by the Asante people and have specific meanings relating to God, hope, the past, etc. Later on, we visited a place where they create the dye to imprint the Asante sashes with these symbols.
I was drawn to the Sankofa bird, a well-known symbol of bird looking backwards. As you move forward, you bring the past with you.
Last night, at the hotel, I ended up talking to Emmanuel, the bartender, for hours. He's from Bolga, which is way up at the top of Ghana, bordering Burkina Faso. He has two daughters and moved to Kumasi for work purposes, though he visits his family regularly. But we got deep. I laid out America's deep-rooted race problems. We discussed Ghanaian politics (which I'm starting to get pretty well-versed in.) We both agreed that the two-party system is outdated and non-functional in Ghana and the US, and that governance doesn't ever really reach the masses. We talked about poverty. He was so surprised about the economic realities in the US for so many people, and that we too, have homeless people, and that our government doesn't care about poor people. Our conversation was pretty dim, but enlightening, and it felt like we were old friends.
Today, we explored Kumasi. It was magnificent.
We first visited Okomfo Anokye hospital, where the famous Asante sword remains in the ground. This is a sacred place for the Asante people. Okomfo Anokye, a leader of the Asante people, placed the sword in the ground to signify unity. He stated that if the sword is ever removed, that will be the end of the Asante people. Until 1995, people have tried to pull the sword from the ground, including Muhammed Ali (to no avail, of course).
We also toured Manhyia Palace, the original palace of the Asantahene (King of Asantes.) The Asante are the oldest tribe in Ghana, and proved serious competitors to the European colonizers. Although, had colonization and the slave trade not commenced, it is believed that Ghana would be Asante region and Twi the official language.
My favorite stop was the Center for National Culture, where Kumasi's finest art was displayed. There were artists selling paintings, sculptures, pottery, jewelry and clothes. The Adinkra symbols are prevalent in jewelry and accessories. They are symbols created by the Asante people and have specific meanings relating to God, hope, the past, etc. Later on, we visited a place where they create the dye to imprint the Asante sashes with these symbols.
I was drawn to the Sankofa bird, a well-known symbol of bird looking backwards. As you move forward, you bring the past with you.
Tuesday, June 14, 2016
Speaking Twi to Market Queens
Friday night was an interesting ordeal, though, one I can't say I'm eager to repeat. It's been tough being a TA for an abroad program for various reasons, but mostly, it can be lonely. I spend most of my time with the students, but none of them are in my peer group. I have been meeting plenty of artists, activists, and media, but they have all been men. I have really been yearning for the companionship of women.
Anyways, Friday night, I had heard about an event in Jamestown, a neighborhood in Accra, but a slum by anyones standards. The community is known for speaking Ga, fishing and birthing incredible boxers. The company, YoYo Tinz, "aims to promote, document and archive the Ghanaian hip hop culture." And having met the two men behind the brand, they invited me to their website launch party.
It was an evening of hip-hop. Graffiti and artwork lined the walls, beatboxers and rappers performed, breakdancers freestyled, and a resident DJ supplied the music for the evening. I initially invited one student along, who has already been to Jamestown, but almost the entire class ended up coming. Unfortunately, because of NYU's mandatory dinners, we missed most of the performances. But the Jamestown in itself was raw and fantastic, and the gallery was buzzing with energy and creativity. It was a do-your-own-thing event. Some people were drinking, others inspected the local artwork, Nana Osei and Selorm (the founders) were being interviewed by a British camera crew.
Following that event, we headed to Republic, upon a student's request. I had been there one time before, and the crowd was overwhelmingly white, with a mix of tourists and expats. Friday was more diverse, but the pricey drink list simply attracted tourists, and only Ghanaians of a certain economic class. As house music played and the tables became crowded, the environment felt bourgeois (bougie) and foreign. The students also got progressively more wasted, and honestly, I've never felt my age more.
Saturday, we all attended a charity football (soccer) match at the sports stadium in Accra. I'm by no
means a big sports fan, but the excitement and site of it all was enjoyable. Sunday, I attended a huge gallery featuring African artists called Artists Alliance. Located in Labadi Beach, a poor neighborhood in Accra, the pink building holds paintings, jewelry, sculptures, masks, clothes and furniture for display and for sale. Each corner of the three-floor gallery offered something new.
Today we began our journey to the North. First stop = Kumasi.
Kumasi is home to the largest market in West Africa, as well as the region of the Asante (Ashanti) people. One of the Ghanaian NYU staff members has been teaching me Twi, the language that would have been the national language of Ghana, had colonization not happened, yet is generally, widely spoken.
The market was packed, and confusing, and hot, and intense, but I spoke to so many people! "Good afternoon" was met with response, but being able to ask in Twi: how they are, respond myself, ask their name, explain my Ghana name and where I'm from, was so appreciated and gave me so much pleasure. My dad always taught me that it's crucial to put in the effort to engage with someone in their language while traveling, and I've truly carried that with me.
Halfway through the market tour, the students were having me translate for them and one student even asked me if I could teach them some phrases. But I was absolutely blown away by the kindness of the people I encountered in the Kumasi market. I'm not sure how often visitors and tourists, especially with white skin, care at all about learning Twi. English is technically the "official" language in Ghana. But I haven't been in the presence of any two Ghanaians who speak purely English to each other.
I received so many smiles and laughs and warm conversations today. I just feel so full and encouraged to learn more.
Anyways, Friday night, I had heard about an event in Jamestown, a neighborhood in Accra, but a slum by anyones standards. The community is known for speaking Ga, fishing and birthing incredible boxers. The company, YoYo Tinz, "aims to promote, document and archive the Ghanaian hip hop culture." And having met the two men behind the brand, they invited me to their website launch party.
It was an evening of hip-hop. Graffiti and artwork lined the walls, beatboxers and rappers performed, breakdancers freestyled, and a resident DJ supplied the music for the evening. I initially invited one student along, who has already been to Jamestown, but almost the entire class ended up coming. Unfortunately, because of NYU's mandatory dinners, we missed most of the performances. But the Jamestown in itself was raw and fantastic, and the gallery was buzzing with energy and creativity. It was a do-your-own-thing event. Some people were drinking, others inspected the local artwork, Nana Osei and Selorm (the founders) were being interviewed by a British camera crew.
Following that event, we headed to Republic, upon a student's request. I had been there one time before, and the crowd was overwhelmingly white, with a mix of tourists and expats. Friday was more diverse, but the pricey drink list simply attracted tourists, and only Ghanaians of a certain economic class. As house music played and the tables became crowded, the environment felt bourgeois (bougie) and foreign. The students also got progressively more wasted, and honestly, I've never felt my age more.
Saturday, we all attended a charity football (soccer) match at the sports stadium in Accra. I'm by no
means a big sports fan, but the excitement and site of it all was enjoyable. Sunday, I attended a huge gallery featuring African artists called Artists Alliance. Located in Labadi Beach, a poor neighborhood in Accra, the pink building holds paintings, jewelry, sculptures, masks, clothes and furniture for display and for sale. Each corner of the three-floor gallery offered something new.
Today we began our journey to the North. First stop = Kumasi.
Kumasi is home to the largest market in West Africa, as well as the region of the Asante (Ashanti) people. One of the Ghanaian NYU staff members has been teaching me Twi, the language that would have been the national language of Ghana, had colonization not happened, yet is generally, widely spoken.
The market was packed, and confusing, and hot, and intense, but I spoke to so many people! "Good afternoon" was met with response, but being able to ask in Twi: how they are, respond myself, ask their name, explain my Ghana name and where I'm from, was so appreciated and gave me so much pleasure. My dad always taught me that it's crucial to put in the effort to engage with someone in their language while traveling, and I've truly carried that with me.
Halfway through the market tour, the students were having me translate for them and one student even asked me if I could teach them some phrases. But I was absolutely blown away by the kindness of the people I encountered in the Kumasi market. I'm not sure how often visitors and tourists, especially with white skin, care at all about learning Twi. English is technically the "official" language in Ghana. But I haven't been in the presence of any two Ghanaians who speak purely English to each other.
I received so many smiles and laughs and warm conversations today. I just feel so full and encouraged to learn more.
Thursday, June 9, 2016
Canopy Walk and Boat Rides
Sunday, on our way home from Cape Coast, we stopped at Kakum National Park to cross the legendary canopy walks.
It was terrifying and amazing at the same time. It was built 20 years ago and is just an extended metal ladder with planks of wood on top.
Tuesday, we visited the Daily Graphic, Ghana's main newspaper. They emphasized the popularity of radio and their movement into the online platform, as well as their state obligation. The editor explained that they do the best they can, but the government is essentially their boss, and so a certain censorship comes along with that.
Yesterday, I met with one of the founding members of the Occupy Ghana movement. It started a couple years ago by a group of middle class professionals, who's businesses were being disrupted by the ongoing and rolling blackouts in Ghana. They organized demonstrations by city hall, and recruited celebrities to attend. Their main objective is holding the government accountable and diluting corruption. They are currently in the middle of a lawsuit with the government for the "bus branding scandal." Ghana is in debt, poverty is widespread, and President Mahama painted all the city buses with his face, enlarged and in color, as well as past presidents in black and white for over 3 million dollars. Occupy Ghana has used social media and TV and radio to communicate their message, but it's has remained strictly a middle class movement. These are lawyers and doctors and engineers, and there is not much connection or engagement with the truly marginalized and poor communities.
Today, we took a day trip with our other professor Audrey Gadzekpo to Radio Ada, a community radio station by the people, for the people and about the people. They translate news into local languages, they have programming for children and they broadcast local, national and some international news. They also train other community radio professionals.
After touring the radio station, we also went through the town of Ada, before stopping at a beautiful hotel for lunch. A DJ played the tunes, as we sipped cokes and ate cheeseburgers on the river side. We finished the day by taking a boat ride and visited various islands in the radius.
Wednesday, June 8, 2016
Elmina and the Slave Castles
I'm still trying to recover from the weekend. It was physically and emotionally draining, but poignant, nonetheless. We had to leave at 6am Saturday morning for Elmina, home to a magnificent town, and the Portuguese and then British operated slave castle. I think pictures illustrate this more than I can. But I want to add a trigger warning, that these photos are disturbing and graphic.
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| A couple of years ago, some Ghanaians spent 24 hours in the dungeon, in order to imagine what their ancestors experienced. It was unimaginable. |
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| The Governor's rooms were behind the balcony, which he would look out from to choose African women to rape. |
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| This was the only opening in this dungeon for ventilation. |
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| These doorways were not open, but bars in the shape of a door, blocked escape. |
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| This was the church where the Portuguese would pray. |
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| Right outside of the door, which colonizers used to transport people from the castles, into slave ships. The water use to touch the edge of the castle. |
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| Our incredible guide finished the tour by drawing our attention to this plaque, and by encouraging a moment of silence. We repeated "never forget" in unison. |
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| An opposite and smaller fort, used to be on the lookout for incoming attacks. |
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| The door of no return. They have now added on the opposite side, "door of return." |
Friday, June 3, 2016
Interviews with the underground scene
Me and Wanlov chatted for almost 2 hours, eating chocolate ice cream and discussing Ghana's social, political and economic climate, as well as the role of the artist in making change. He spoke of corruption, on so many levels, and the intersection of systems that keep the majority of Ghana's population poor and oppressed. He told me that he will continue to be more and more controversial. He is willing to get arrested and beaten, if necessary, for freedom.
Wednesday night I finally heard live music. I went to a popular bar called Republic, where a high life band played upbeat and joyful tunes for a mostly white audience of tourists and expats. I found the drinks much cheaper and the vibe more local at a bar a couple stores up, where the live music could still be heard. Every so often the power would go out, although the show would go on. Ghanaian store owners and patrons are so use to this, that nothing was even mentioned. It was business as usual.
Thursday, the students and I had our first lecture with Audrey Gadzekpo, a senior lecturer in the School of Communications at the University of Ghana. She taught an incredible course wit visuals, video, readings and audio, on reporting Africa. We reflected on the archetypes perpetuated in media, the "single story," and our obligation as journalists to find the balance. Stories purely of joy from a region can be just as patronizing as only stories of catastrophe. Countries and communities are denied their humanity and nuance this way. All things I want to confront and carry as I continue my own research.
I also visited the seamstress and picked out some beautiful fabrics to get clothes made! Marjorie is 9 months pregnant, and still working hard.
Today, I had a really inspiring interview with EliMuzik, an artist who models himself after Fela Kuti. He use to work for the government and now critiques it with his music. But he experiences so much fear. He can no longer keep silent of suffering happening in his communities, but he understands that the government is the supreme and consequences come with speaking truth.
Afterwards, I went to the W.E.B DuBois Memorial Centre for Pan-African Culture. DuBois was invited to live in Ghana by Nkrumah in 1960 when he became president, so DuBois could compose the official encyclopedia for African history. The museum is the house, which he lived for the last 2 years of his life in Ghana, as well as where he and his wife were put to rest.
Tonight I have to pack for Cape Coast and prepare myself for the slave castles. I'm excited, but I also know it will be incredibly emotional to come face to face with this history.
Wednesday, June 1, 2016
Touring Ghana's Broadcasting Corporation
We had 2 semi-interesting lectures Tuesday morning about Ghana's economy and the media industry.
Some harsh statistics reinforce the types of poverty I've been seeing. With a 28 million population, 56.4% are economically active and 83% earn less than $250 per month. The minimum wage in Ghana is 3 cedis, which is less than 1 US dollar. In 2011, Ghana experienced a surge in growth, due to the discovery of oil. But as it usually works, that wealth is exploited far more than it trickles down.
Radio is Ghana's most popular form of news. The official language is English, but as I've said before, than are almost 50 local languages spoken in Ghana, so people may be able to communicate in English, but it doesn't necessarily mean they can read and write in English. Radio is accessible (there are over 300 stations) and it reaches every crevice of Ghana. Broadcasting happens in multiple languages, including French, so surrounding West African countries can comprehend Ghanaian news. Also, most of the newspapers are owned by politicians and can be very political/polarizing. Media has been a major source of blackmail.
We took a tour of Ghana Broadcasting Corporation, which is home to some of the most popular radio and TV programs. The corporation's press agent met us outside and immediately said, "I assume everyone here is Christian. I want one of you to say a prayer before we begin." Everyone was stunned and silent. We had heard about influx of Christianity in daily life, but hadn't really experienced it yet. Luckily Prof Edozien saved us by diplomatically saying, we are all of different faiths. She then proceeded to say her own prayer.
Again, unexpectedly, our first stop once inside was to a soldier sitting behind a fort of sand bags with an AK across his lap. GBC has a history of being the first place co-opted during coups, because of it's ability to reach the entire country.
The tour got less bleak. We stopped at the Gramaphone library, which is the 2nd largest collection of music in Africa. They preserve Ghana's music and culture by digitizing records. They even have records from the '30s. We went into the radio rooms, where well-known radio and club DJ Chris Kelly was beginning his afternoon show. He even let some students get on air.
We went into the newsroom and talked with Ghanaian journalists of various beats, covering stories relating to health, business, sports, breaking news and entertainment. We saw where logos are made and videos are edited, as well as the TV broadcasting vans used for onsite reporting. It was a very long visit, but compelling, nonetheless.
Today, Frankie taught his first reporting course, where he went over basic reporting skills. I'm continuing to develop my thesis idea and research and I'm off to get an interview with Wanlov from the FOKN Bois before he heads to Europe for a summer tour.
Some harsh statistics reinforce the types of poverty I've been seeing. With a 28 million population, 56.4% are economically active and 83% earn less than $250 per month. The minimum wage in Ghana is 3 cedis, which is less than 1 US dollar. In 2011, Ghana experienced a surge in growth, due to the discovery of oil. But as it usually works, that wealth is exploited far more than it trickles down.
Radio is Ghana's most popular form of news. The official language is English, but as I've said before, than are almost 50 local languages spoken in Ghana, so people may be able to communicate in English, but it doesn't necessarily mean they can read and write in English. Radio is accessible (there are over 300 stations) and it reaches every crevice of Ghana. Broadcasting happens in multiple languages, including French, so surrounding West African countries can comprehend Ghanaian news. Also, most of the newspapers are owned by politicians and can be very political/polarizing. Media has been a major source of blackmail.
We took a tour of Ghana Broadcasting Corporation, which is home to some of the most popular radio and TV programs. The corporation's press agent met us outside and immediately said, "I assume everyone here is Christian. I want one of you to say a prayer before we begin." Everyone was stunned and silent. We had heard about influx of Christianity in daily life, but hadn't really experienced it yet. Luckily Prof Edozien saved us by diplomatically saying, we are all of different faiths. She then proceeded to say her own prayer.
Again, unexpectedly, our first stop once inside was to a soldier sitting behind a fort of sand bags with an AK across his lap. GBC has a history of being the first place co-opted during coups, because of it's ability to reach the entire country.
The tour got less bleak. We stopped at the Gramaphone library, which is the 2nd largest collection of music in Africa. They preserve Ghana's music and culture by digitizing records. They even have records from the '30s. We went into the radio rooms, where well-known radio and club DJ Chris Kelly was beginning his afternoon show. He even let some students get on air.
We went into the newsroom and talked with Ghanaian journalists of various beats, covering stories relating to health, business, sports, breaking news and entertainment. We saw where logos are made and videos are edited, as well as the TV broadcasting vans used for onsite reporting. It was a very long visit, but compelling, nonetheless.
Today, Frankie taught his first reporting course, where he went over basic reporting skills. I'm continuing to develop my thesis idea and research and I'm off to get an interview with Wanlov from the FOKN Bois before he heads to Europe for a summer tour.
Monday, May 30, 2016
Meeting the masked Journalist
We had 3 really amazing lectures today and then the afternoon free, hence my ability to catch up on my blogging.
Dr. Emmanuel Debrah gave an overview of politics in Ghana, beginning primarily with Kwame Nkrumah and political independence in 1957. The country became a free nation in 1960, where Nkrumah was elected as the first president and led the Convention People's Party. He governed until 1966, until a military coup, funded by the CIA, overthrew him. Nkrumah was radical and a socialist, and connected to Eastern governance, and so naturally, the United States funded his downfall.
Ghana has a history of coups. Jerry Rawlings' coup of 1979 was of the most substantial. He was already in power when he ran and won the presidency in 1992, under the National Democratic Congress (just a subsidiary of his previous regime) and served as head of state until 2001. During his presidency, he borrowed lot's of money and Ghana became seriously indebted. Ghana is preparing for a presidential election this November.
The second lecture was absolute fascinating, conducted by a sociologist on traditional medicine. Kodjo Senah went in-depth into the 3 recognizable healing systems in Ghana: allopathetic or bio-medicine, which constitutes hospitals, clinics and Western medicine, indigenous healing facilities, and asiatic or natural healing systems.
He spoke of Ghana's health problems. Infant mortality is very high and 1 out of 10 babies die before the age of 5. In rural areas, only 40% have access to good drinking water and 30% to functioning toilet facilities. The doctor patient ratio is 1 : 13,000. The average age in Ghana is 19.
Part of colonization and the promotion of Christianity and Westernization included a systematic attack on local, traditional practices. In 1892, a law was instituted called The Native Customs Regulation Ordinance, which banned traditional healing. The rift between traditional healers and Western doctors is still prevalent in Ghana. And only after independence, were the rights of traditional healers restored. Nkrumah created an association for traditional healers, but when his government was co-opted, the association also came down.
In 1975, the Centre for Scientific Research into Plant Medicine was founded and there became a boost of herbal medicine. Even though Christian and elite groups, and medical professionals are still trying to kill indigenous medicine, the government is working to implement herbal medicines into local hospitals. Healers have had increased visibility since the 1980s and many even have billboards advertising their skills.
The final speaker was Ghanaian investigative journalist Anas Amereyaw Anas. Famous for his undercover work for BBC, CNN and Al Jazeera. He walked into the room with his face completely covered and explained that his "anonymity is his secret weapon." He disguises himself in various costumes to enter spaces where corruption or illegal activity is running rampant, and with hidden cameras, he films people in the very illegal act and uses that footage to convict them. He calls it "problem-solving journalism" and it's his way of "dealing with weak institutions." He aims to make meaningful change in society and for the people of his community. He's a trained lawyer, but also a realist and listens to what his community needs.
Anas was tired of hearing the same old stories of Africa, and of Western journalists parachuting in to his communities to capture surface-level stories. He is adamant that Africans must tell their own stories and their own way. He left us by saying, "hopefully one day I won't need to wear this mask."
I made sure I got a selfie with this brave, brave man.
Dr. Emmanuel Debrah gave an overview of politics in Ghana, beginning primarily with Kwame Nkrumah and political independence in 1957. The country became a free nation in 1960, where Nkrumah was elected as the first president and led the Convention People's Party. He governed until 1966, until a military coup, funded by the CIA, overthrew him. Nkrumah was radical and a socialist, and connected to Eastern governance, and so naturally, the United States funded his downfall.
Ghana has a history of coups. Jerry Rawlings' coup of 1979 was of the most substantial. He was already in power when he ran and won the presidency in 1992, under the National Democratic Congress (just a subsidiary of his previous regime) and served as head of state until 2001. During his presidency, he borrowed lot's of money and Ghana became seriously indebted. Ghana is preparing for a presidential election this November.
The second lecture was absolute fascinating, conducted by a sociologist on traditional medicine. Kodjo Senah went in-depth into the 3 recognizable healing systems in Ghana: allopathetic or bio-medicine, which constitutes hospitals, clinics and Western medicine, indigenous healing facilities, and asiatic or natural healing systems.
He spoke of Ghana's health problems. Infant mortality is very high and 1 out of 10 babies die before the age of 5. In rural areas, only 40% have access to good drinking water and 30% to functioning toilet facilities. The doctor patient ratio is 1 : 13,000. The average age in Ghana is 19.
Part of colonization and the promotion of Christianity and Westernization included a systematic attack on local, traditional practices. In 1892, a law was instituted called The Native Customs Regulation Ordinance, which banned traditional healing. The rift between traditional healers and Western doctors is still prevalent in Ghana. And only after independence, were the rights of traditional healers restored. Nkrumah created an association for traditional healers, but when his government was co-opted, the association also came down.
In 1975, the Centre for Scientific Research into Plant Medicine was founded and there became a boost of herbal medicine. Even though Christian and elite groups, and medical professionals are still trying to kill indigenous medicine, the government is working to implement herbal medicines into local hospitals. Healers have had increased visibility since the 1980s and many even have billboards advertising their skills.
The final speaker was Ghanaian investigative journalist Anas Amereyaw Anas. Famous for his undercover work for BBC, CNN and Al Jazeera. He walked into the room with his face completely covered and explained that his "anonymity is his secret weapon." He disguises himself in various costumes to enter spaces where corruption or illegal activity is running rampant, and with hidden cameras, he films people in the very illegal act and uses that footage to convict them. He calls it "problem-solving journalism" and it's his way of "dealing with weak institutions." He aims to make meaningful change in society and for the people of his community. He's a trained lawyer, but also a realist and listens to what his community needs.
Anas was tired of hearing the same old stories of Africa, and of Western journalists parachuting in to his communities to capture surface-level stories. He is adamant that Africans must tell their own stories and their own way. He left us by saying, "hopefully one day I won't need to wear this mask."
I made sure I got a selfie with this brave, brave man.
Music video shoots in Ghana
So much has happened since I've last written! I've finally found the time to head out on my own and immerse myself into the music scene.
Saturday night was special. I ventured to a very new spot called Sand Box and it was so in the cut that my taxi driver had to ask about 10 different people for directions. At one point he even gave my phone to a local to try to figure out directions from M.anifest's cousin, who I was communicating with to help get me there.
Tree barks were carved as mini tables and held Club, "the truly Ghanaian beer." A huge projector captivated the room and displayed a football (soccer) game, in which I had no idea what was going on, but everyone was very in to. Big L spun incredible tunes, hits from the 90s and early 00s, by DMX, Nelly, Missy Elliott, Jay Z, 2Pac, Lauryn Hill, Pharrell, Busta Rhymes. I was getting my life! All American music, though. People would literally go from rapping along to Biggie, to screaming at the screen, and back to rapping again. The vibes were so good.
Close to 8pm, M.anifest walked in, running late from a wedding. The professional lights turned on and the camera got in position. He enlisted a South African director and a Lebanese videographer to shoot his video. I ended up making several cameos! The first scene was of us dancing to his song. At first, people were being very shy, so I encouraged a cypher and had us all take turns dancing in the middle. Then people started sweating and smiling. I ended up bonding very much with about 5 women or so, who are in university in Ghana. Patrina, who I talked to the most, ended up living very close to the NYU dorms and we shared a cab home.
Sunday, was such a long day. I watched and photographed another music video shoot from start to finish. I finally had a chance to meet up with Wanlov the Kubolor, who is both famous and controversial in Ghana. He performs as a solo artist and is 1/2 of the FOKN Bois (pronounced just like it looks: fuckin' boys.) Wanlov also shoots, directs and edits artists' videos. Yesterday he was handling the video for up and coming rapper, Joey B. The FOKN Bois are known for their satirical music. They've created musicals, and they have records addressing government corruption, homophobia in Africa, double standards for women in Islam, all with a satirical twist.
I took a cab to Wanlov's house and he met me on the street wearing just a towel. We then shared a local Ghanaian dish for lunch called Banku, which his daughter's mother prepared for us. He previewed an incredible video he was editing, as well as featured on, addressing the plastic ware issue in Ghana. Ghana currently has no recycling system and a very poor trash system. Garbage is essentially dumped into the ocean. People often go to beaches just to use the bathroom. One the sides of roads, there are drains, meant to send excess water into the ocean. Last year, plastic bags clogged the systems and 150 people died from flooding. Wanlov made an appearance in the video completely naked, with Ghanaian President Mahama's face censoring his genitals.
We went off to North Kaneshie, a neighborhood in Accra where Joey B grew up and lived for 18 years. The first scene took place right in front of his house. I took some amazing photos, which I need better internet access to edit and upload, so stand by.
It took quite long to set up initially. Power is a major problem in Ghana, and there are often blackouts. Wanlov, barefoot and with just a wrap around his waist, kept asking shop owners for extension cords. "I got power for you," one person yelled. Wanlov also wears an electrical construction hat, meant to be symbolic for the blackouts Ghana experiences.
The second scene was in a huge complex with a basketball court and 2 soccer fields. It was Sunday and everyone was outside playing. Wanlov used a drone camera to shoot Joey in front of the basketball court, yet in an aerial position. Finally, Joey rode his bike throughout his neighborhood, while we all piled into a pickup truck. Wanlov lay flat and filmed Joey riding slowly behind us.
We drove into a populated residential area, where children played and their parents watched on from porches. Everyone stared at us as we were driving, I assumed because we were a caravan of cameras and people with Joey's single blasting. A group of very young girls jumped and clapped in unison, with beautiful smiles. They all shouted "obruni! obruni! They were so cute, I almost cried. I smiled and turned towards the woman next to me and asked what they were yelling: white woman. I felt so embarrassed.
We made a quick pitstop for kelewele, fried plantains seasoned with spices, which is my favorite thing in Ghana. Finally people stopped yelling for me and began yelling at Wanlov, shouting his name, and confirming his celebrity status. All throughout the shoot I was discussing with the guys about the hip-hop scene here. They said a couple different things: Ghana is experiencing their Golden Age of hip-hop, very similar to ours in the 1990s. Rap is lyrically-driven, with hard-hitting production and based on reality. I also heard that there is very little political or conscious rap and most people are trying to be commercially and financially successful. Finally, that Ghana is very influenced by reggae and dancehall and that is one of the most popular musical styles. The parallels between Jamaica and Ghana are extraordinary.
Enough for now, I'll try to upload photos when I can.
Saturday night was special. I ventured to a very new spot called Sand Box and it was so in the cut that my taxi driver had to ask about 10 different people for directions. At one point he even gave my phone to a local to try to figure out directions from M.anifest's cousin, who I was communicating with to help get me there.
Tree barks were carved as mini tables and held Club, "the truly Ghanaian beer." A huge projector captivated the room and displayed a football (soccer) game, in which I had no idea what was going on, but everyone was very in to. Big L spun incredible tunes, hits from the 90s and early 00s, by DMX, Nelly, Missy Elliott, Jay Z, 2Pac, Lauryn Hill, Pharrell, Busta Rhymes. I was getting my life! All American music, though. People would literally go from rapping along to Biggie, to screaming at the screen, and back to rapping again. The vibes were so good.
Close to 8pm, M.anifest walked in, running late from a wedding. The professional lights turned on and the camera got in position. He enlisted a South African director and a Lebanese videographer to shoot his video. I ended up making several cameos! The first scene was of us dancing to his song. At first, people were being very shy, so I encouraged a cypher and had us all take turns dancing in the middle. Then people started sweating and smiling. I ended up bonding very much with about 5 women or so, who are in university in Ghana. Patrina, who I talked to the most, ended up living very close to the NYU dorms and we shared a cab home.
Sunday, was such a long day. I watched and photographed another music video shoot from start to finish. I finally had a chance to meet up with Wanlov the Kubolor, who is both famous and controversial in Ghana. He performs as a solo artist and is 1/2 of the FOKN Bois (pronounced just like it looks: fuckin' boys.) Wanlov also shoots, directs and edits artists' videos. Yesterday he was handling the video for up and coming rapper, Joey B. The FOKN Bois are known for their satirical music. They've created musicals, and they have records addressing government corruption, homophobia in Africa, double standards for women in Islam, all with a satirical twist.
I took a cab to Wanlov's house and he met me on the street wearing just a towel. We then shared a local Ghanaian dish for lunch called Banku, which his daughter's mother prepared for us. He previewed an incredible video he was editing, as well as featured on, addressing the plastic ware issue in Ghana. Ghana currently has no recycling system and a very poor trash system. Garbage is essentially dumped into the ocean. People often go to beaches just to use the bathroom. One the sides of roads, there are drains, meant to send excess water into the ocean. Last year, plastic bags clogged the systems and 150 people died from flooding. Wanlov made an appearance in the video completely naked, with Ghanaian President Mahama's face censoring his genitals.
We went off to North Kaneshie, a neighborhood in Accra where Joey B grew up and lived for 18 years. The first scene took place right in front of his house. I took some amazing photos, which I need better internet access to edit and upload, so stand by.
It took quite long to set up initially. Power is a major problem in Ghana, and there are often blackouts. Wanlov, barefoot and with just a wrap around his waist, kept asking shop owners for extension cords. "I got power for you," one person yelled. Wanlov also wears an electrical construction hat, meant to be symbolic for the blackouts Ghana experiences.
The second scene was in a huge complex with a basketball court and 2 soccer fields. It was Sunday and everyone was outside playing. Wanlov used a drone camera to shoot Joey in front of the basketball court, yet in an aerial position. Finally, Joey rode his bike throughout his neighborhood, while we all piled into a pickup truck. Wanlov lay flat and filmed Joey riding slowly behind us.
We drove into a populated residential area, where children played and their parents watched on from porches. Everyone stared at us as we were driving, I assumed because we were a caravan of cameras and people with Joey's single blasting. A group of very young girls jumped and clapped in unison, with beautiful smiles. They all shouted "obruni! obruni! They were so cute, I almost cried. I smiled and turned towards the woman next to me and asked what they were yelling: white woman. I felt so embarrassed.
We made a quick pitstop for kelewele, fried plantains seasoned with spices, which is my favorite thing in Ghana. Finally people stopped yelling for me and began yelling at Wanlov, shouting his name, and confirming his celebrity status. All throughout the shoot I was discussing with the guys about the hip-hop scene here. They said a couple different things: Ghana is experiencing their Golden Age of hip-hop, very similar to ours in the 1990s. Rap is lyrically-driven, with hard-hitting production and based on reality. I also heard that there is very little political or conscious rap and most people are trying to be commercially and financially successful. Finally, that Ghana is very influenced by reggae and dancehall and that is one of the most popular musical styles. The parallels between Jamaica and Ghana are extraordinary.
Enough for now, I'll try to upload photos when I can.
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