Interviews with the underground scene

Me and Wanlov chatted for almost 2 hours, eating chocolate ice cream and discussing Ghana's social, political and economic climate, as well as the role of the artist in making change. He spoke of corruption, on so many levels, and the intersection of systems that keep the majority of Ghana's population poor and oppressed. He told me that he will continue to be more and more controversial. He is willing to get arrested and beaten, if necessary, for freedom. 

Wednesday night I finally heard live music. I went to a popular bar called Republic, where a high life band played upbeat and joyful tunes for a mostly white audience of tourists and expats. I found the drinks much cheaper and the vibe more local at a bar a couple stores up, where the live music could still be heard. Every so often the power would go out, although the show would go on. Ghanaian store owners and patrons are so use to this, that nothing was even mentioned. It was business as usual.

Thursday, the students and I had our first lecture with Audrey Gadzekpo, a senior lecturer in the School of Communications at the University of Ghana. She taught an incredible course wit visuals, video, readings and audio, on reporting Africa. We reflected on the archetypes perpetuated in media, the "single story," and our obligation as journalists to find the balance. Stories purely of joy from a region can be just as patronizing as only stories of catastrophe. Countries and communities are denied their humanity and nuance this way. All things I want to confront and carry as I continue my own research.

I also visited the seamstress and picked out some beautiful fabrics to get clothes made! Marjorie is 9 months pregnant, and still working hard.

Today, I had a really inspiring interview with EliMuzik, an artist who models himself after Fela Kuti. He use to work for the government and now critiques it with his music. But he experiences so much fear. He can no longer keep silent of suffering happening in his communities, but he understands that the government is the supreme and consequences come with speaking truth.

Afterwards, I went to the W.E.B DuBois Memorial Centre for Pan-African Culture. DuBois was invited to live in Ghana by Nkrumah in 1960 when he became president, so DuBois could compose the official encyclopedia for African history. The museum is the house, which he lived for the last 2 years of his life in Ghana, as well as where he and his wife were put to rest. 

Tonight I have to pack for Cape Coast and prepare myself for the slave castles. I'm excited, but I also know it will be incredibly emotional to come face to face with this history.